postcard from paris
formula for a perfect Parisian itinerary
Greetings to you from an older, wiser, more evolved, yet ever-youthful, version of myself post-birthday!
Another lap around the sun, and it does, somehow, keep getting better. Not easier by any means, just better?
Another year of deepening existing relationships and welcoming new ones. And with that, learning more about who I want to show up as. Embracing the parts of myself that feel hardwired, as well as the parts of myself that got lost along the way that I want to reconnect with, and alsooo letting go of the bits that no longer feel aligned. As always, learning and unlearning.
Alright alright, I know you came here for recipes, restaurant recs, and links to Japanese knives, not birthday reflections and introspections. Just feeling lucky and grateful is all!
ANYWAY.
In birthday adjacent news, I recently hosted two very dear friends (since we’re 4!) at my apartment for the weekend. One of them had never been to Paris (!!), so I felt a bit of pressure to ensure we (Paris and I) made an incredible first impression.
Luckily the weather not only cooperated, it showed off. A delightful 70ish and sunny. The type of temperature so ideal you wouldn’t notice it, but only do because you’re fresh off winter and reveling in your coatlessness!
My friends, visiting from NYC, are avid walkers, to put it mildly. As an avid biker, my health app literally notified me and was like “We noticed a pretty intense change in your behavior. R U GOOD?”. Jokes aside, it was pretty magical to take in Paris by foot, especially at night, and especially alongside someone who was seeing the city for the very first time <3.
As someone who takes hosting / itinerary crafting pretty seriously, below are my recommendations on how to spend a few perfect days in Paris.
GENERAL STRUCTURE
If arriving from the US / somewhere with a serious time-change, know thyself / know thy guest. Are you an immediate napper? (my parents), a pre-dinner napper (me), or do you push through and have a big first sleep? You do you boo! But, of course, take this into account when crafting your first day.
In other words, don’t peak early. If you have 3-4 nights, I recommend a bell-curve itinerary. I’ll explain, bear with me.
I think it’s best to slowly build, peak, and then taper off and end on a wholesome cozy note. Obviously, if you’re here for a quickie and intend to peak at all times, ça marche aussi! This is just my preferred planning style when I’m showing out-of-towners a good time.
DAY 1 : CLASSIC + QUINTESSENTIAL
Bienvenue! To start things off strong and seamless, I recommend using a private transfer to take you from CDG/Orly to your accommodation. It’s about €150 (uber is €75ish), and you will be greeted at baggage claim with a smile, assistance, and the gift of not having to navigate/coordinate after a redeye. Self-care.
* WhatsApp Yassine +33 615408096 for private transfer (Mercedes sedan or sprinter van)
As stated above, nap / don’t nap, but let’s start thinking about your first meal. You’re in Paris!!! I hope you didn’t fill up on a microwaved airplane egg and an underripe banana.
You’ve also likely already ingested dirty dishwater airplane/airport coffee, so let’s sort that out first.
Disclaimer: (keeping most of these recs centrally located, but you can still follow the general formula in any arrondissement)
COFFEE / PASTRIES
Dreamin Man, Telescope, Nuances, Cortado, Paolina, Terres de Cafe
I’m actually not a croissant critic. Truly (almost) any boulangerie here will deliver. My favorites are Terroirs d’Avenir, Du Pain et Des Idées, and Boulangerie du Sentier (voted best croissant in Paris!). But that would probably be my first bite. Officially cross the French threshold — have coffee and a buttery carb. Allez.
BRUNCH / LUNCH
If you’re staying with me, I’ll be cooking your first meal. If not, I recommend something easy and delicious, but quintessentially Parisian.
Quick — Le Petit Vendome or Chez Aline (far but worth it) for a baguette sandwich. Take-away and eat it in the Tuileries, Palais Royal, or bike to Canal Saint Martin.
Seated — I’d go for casual and classic, somewhere like Bistrot de Paris, Chez Nenesse, or Relais de l’Entrecôte. — but head to the newest Saint Honore location, as there seem to be no lines yet…
* If you’re a meat-lover, go to Dents de Loup butcher counter where the in-house chef will prepare you an insane piece of meat.
AFTERNOON
some easy shopping + culture + park hangs near your accommodation
(working on a full Paris black book with all of my favorite addresses, stay tuned)
DINNER
Classic French bistro vibes for sure. My go-to is Chez Georges (Rue du Mail). Other favorites are À L’Épi d’Or, Le Bon Georges, or Le Voltaire.
* get the pave du mail at Chez G. I dream of sopping up frites in that mustard cream cognac sauce…
Walk off dinner and wait for the Eiffel Tower to sparkle <3 Get your beauty sleep.
DAY 2: CULTURE, KEEPSAKES + GOOD VIBES
Wake up feeling fresh. Get out and about early! Hit a museum or the big malls before they get too crowded (don’t miss the top vintage floor at Printemps).
MORNING / AFTERNOON
Option 1: Calder exhibit at the Louis Vuitton Foundation, followed by lunch at La Ferme du Pré. Return to the 1st/2nd for shopping & sitting in the rose garden in Palais Royal.
Get a keepsake you will always remember the trip by, like a custom perfume from Nose, stationary from Papier Royal, or a handmade journal from Louise Carmen.
Option 2: Explore Saint Germain. Start at Musée Rodin, ideally mid-morning to get the best light, followed by lunch at La Petite Chaise.
Stroll Rue de Grenelle + Rue de Varenne for the best boutiques — Rubirosas, Voyage, La Tressorerie, Sabbia Rosa, Ines de la Fressange, etc. Of course, no shopping trip in the 6th is complete without a trip to Le Bon Marché.
In terms of keepsake, if you want to really ball out, perhaps a vintage watch from Contre Temps?
DRINKS / DINNER
If it’s nice weather, go to L’escale for apero. Get a bottle of wine and €1 plastic glasses and enjoy it by the Seine at sundown. If it’s not, go to Hotel Costes.
I’d recommend something a bit livelier for dinner but nothing too too fancy, save that for your “peak” night. Walk to Petite Celestin, or if you’re happy to venture a bit farther, try Paulownia, Dandelion, Lissit, or L’Orillon.
For post dinner drinks, Harry’s Bar, Bar Principal, Bar Nouveau, La Palette or Rosebud.
DAY 3 : SHOPPING, VIEWS, SWANKY SPOTS + MAYBE A BOOGIE
Ok yes quintessential Marais shopping moment would be here I suppose. Earlier the better, before it turns into Disneyland sans express pass or monorail. DM me for list of vintage shops, etc.
In a low-blood sugar panic, we ended up at Cafe Charlot for lunch, and you know, it wasn’t half bad! For the average French bistro, you have your FFC’s (fake flower cafe’s iykyk), and then you have a notch above, which I would categorize this under. A Comte omelette, fries, and mustardy salad did the trick. Otherwise favorites in the Marais are Les Enfants du Marche, Mary Celeste, and Chez Julien.
DRINKS / DINNER
Wherever your “peak” night lies, I recommend throwing in a rooftop view. Something upscale and swanky where they serve martinis in hair-thin glassware. Something like Le Tout or Langosteria’s bar in Cheval Blanc.
SPLURGE fancy/foodie meal (if that’s your thing) — Table, Septime (reservations open at 10am 3 weeks out), Arpege, La Tour D’Argent, or Plénitude to name a few.
If you prefer fun > fancy, go for Lafayette’s, Lapérouse, Jais, or Maxim’s
If you want to continue the fun + boogie : Bus Palladium, Raspoutine, Silencio, Tar, La Fete + Pamela.
DAY 4 : FLÂNER, ETC.
If you’re lucky enough for your last full day to fall on a Sunday, have yourself a Parisian Dimanche (= doing next to nothing). Plan less, wander more. Flâner.
Flea market / farmer’s market morning. Get provisions for a picnic.
Meander through an exhibition. Read in Jardin du Luxembourg (my personal favorite Sunday activity).
If your last full day is not a Sunday, I would probably head to Montmartre. Walk to Sacré-Cœur for one of the best views of the city, have tea in the garden at Hotel Particulier. If it’s a Tues-Fri, have lunch at Le Maquis (one of my favorite meals in Paris). Wander around Rue des Abbesses, Rue Ravignan, Rue des Trois Frères, Rue la Vieuville, and Rue des Martyrs for the best shopping.
Memorialize the trip at the photobooth in Montmartre.
DINNER
Personally, I’d change it up from classic French. This is your wildcard. Takara for Japanese, Cheval D’Or for Chinese/French fusion, Tarantula for Mexican, Pochana for Thai, or Shana for Israeli.
Highly recommend walking home, a bit buzzed, taking in the magic that is Paris by night. Bisous!
AU REVOIR. A BIENTOT <333333333
This is sooo cute
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