Gems in Marseille / Paris
Everywhere I ate and drank in France last week, the most beautiful shop I've ever been to, and some self awareness
(Tuesday) Sitting on the train back to (rainy) London after a magical whirlwind week in Marseille and Paris. It really is dangerously close/easy to make the trip. It’s also dangerously easy to modify your train time in the Eurostar app. So easy I postponed it 4 times ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.
I’ve been wanting to visit Marseille ever since I saw the Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown episode. I, too, have an affinity for cities that are maybe a bit rough around the edges. Cities in which you have to possess local intel to peel back its layers and discover the real gems. Not just the trendy instagram spots, but the spots where locals eat, drink, and in this case, swim.
But before diving into travel recommendations and restaurant highlights, I want to pause and offer a vulnerable admission. Lately, it’s been difficult for me to stay present in my life and synthesize my thoughts and experiences into quippy inspired substacks, in real time. I’ve come across this before though. When I was in my culinary programs in Italy I was overwhelmed with joy, newness, and adventure. It was just general sensory overload, in a positive way. I would crawl into bed, exhausted, brain buzzing with bliss, whip out my journal and have quite literally nothing to say — my mind was a blinking cursor. However, a few weeks later, after a bit of decompression, I couldn’t stop writing about my experiences. The clarity had crystallized after the come-down.
Similarly, but also very different, when I was in the Hamptons cooking for a big client, I was overwhelmed with stress, newness, and pressure to perform at the highest level. It was sensory overload, in a not-so-positive way. I would crawl into bed, exhausted, brain buzzing with anxiety, and although I had a LOT to say, I simply couldn’t articulate it just yet.
I’m learning from these experiences that when I’m in a time of transition (i.e. culinary school, high-pressure job, moving to a new country, etc.), my thoughts and feelings aren’t perfectly synched. But I recently read a very moving essay (make sure tissues are on hand), which said — “Whenever I get in my own way, I remind myself of this repeatedly. What is my heart telling me? Forget about what my mind is telling me. As a culture we often reference mindfulness, but she introduced me to the concept of heartfulness.”. Coming from someone who tends to lead with head over heart, reading this was the reminder I needed to lean into feeling and let the thoughts follow later.
I created this substack to share my miscellaneous passions peppered with unfiltered thoughts, to embrace the not-knowing and maintain a conversational tone throughout. So, all to say, I’m leaning in to the heartfulness of it all, having grace for myself in knowing that the insights from this expansiveness will come. In the meantime, I have LOTS of great bits to share from my recent travels…
ONWARDS.
M A R S E I L L E
Where To Stay
Effortlessly cool, stylish interiors, delicious seafood, and pristine seaside swimming access. The obvious choice, but with only 5 rooms, it’s tricky to get a booking here. If it’s full, book for lunch and stay for a swim. The vibes here are unmatched. Quite a small property, but full of personality with breathtaking views and a very fun staff. The property is located ~30 minutes outside of the city, on the edge of The Goudes district near the Calanques. Here, you’ll be closer to crystal clear swimming coves with a more relaxed, local feel.
A bit larger and more contemporary, this property is also situated right on the sea. It’s walkable to great restaurants, wine bars, and coffee shops, making it a solid alternative to Tuba.
The bad news is the outdoor pool is currently not accessible, BUT the fantastic news is that the hotel is granting complimentary guest passes to CNM, the member’s only swimming club just down the street. Apparently, this swim spot is incredibly exclusive. Less so pretentious, more so protected. The club hasn’t changed in decades. There’s absolutely no frills whatsoever here, but in a COOL way. When we told locals where we had been swimming they gasped and said no?! ooh la la!!!!!!
Where to Eat/Drink
Start your day like a local at Petrin Couchette in the Noaills district for la pompe à huile and café au lait. Same owners as La Mercerie (nextdoor). Quality is prioritized with long fermentations, natural sourdough, and ancient wheat. Sit on the sunny terrace to enjoy your coffee and confections and plot the rest of your day in Marseille.
Boissonnerie – the coolest little mobile sandwich + ice cream bike cart run by local Cécilia Bonacchi. Perched on the edge of Les Goudes district, Cecilia offers 3 simple but incredibly high quality sandwiches and a few ice creams. Order Le Pan Bagnat, which is essentially a tuna niçoise inside a soft crusty ciabatta bun, sliced in half and doused in olive oil just before serving. The perfect beach lunch.
Keep reading with a 7-day free trial
Subscribe to bread & butter to keep reading this post and get 7 days of free access to the full post archives.