«last week» Currently on the train (eurostar) back to London after a few dopamine-inducing days in Paris. Highlights include, but are not limited to, an underground omakase tea-tasting, shrimp-toast croque madame, miniature Italian ice cream bars (dai-dais), ketchup from Corsica, and, obviously, copious amounts of bread and butter. I remain loyally committed to why you’re here in the first place.
It’s still surreal that this incredible city, where one of my dearest best friends resides, is only a train ride away now. A great reminder to never forget the things that are now yours that you once dreamed about…
LE BON GEORGES
For my first night, we had plans of dining at Lolo cave a manger. We pivoted quickly after realizing that it was mostly standing, and I was wearing shoes that were designed for mostly sitting. We decided to walk into Le Bon Georges and test our luck. As I mentioned in my last Parisian substack, what may initially be “c’est impossible” is really “pas impossible” if you show a little perseverance, thick skin, and good humor. We asked to see the wine list and were handed a biblically thick whopping old thing and managed to agree on a pinot noir. I’m upset I didn’t take a photo of the label because it was one of those really memorable wines — that first sip will always act as a time capsule to the moment in which you first enjoyed it. April in Paris <3. I ordered the evening special of double-cut pork chop with caramelized onions and lentils. Jess ordered the steak frites, which came with an unassuming ketchup that happens to reign from Corsica and taste like sweet tomato sauce of the Gods. Can you think of anything more American than highlighting the freaking ketchup from a meal at LBG?! I do assure you it is something to write home about though.
LOCALINO
Wednesday morning, awaiting Meg’s arrival, we sat at Les Antiquaires for coffee and croissants. For lunch, we went to Localino — my favorite spot for Italian in Paris. The menu may be limited (to a chalkboard of specials), but each featured item is simple and spectacular. True Italian cooking. When you go, and I highly suggest you do on your next visit, order the vitello tonnato, 1-2 pastas, a vegetable special, and the tiramisu for dessert. We were celebrating a friend’s birthday, so they brought out these little Italian ice-cream bars called “dai-dai” (translated to c’mon c’mon) that were reminiscent of those mini Dove ice-cream bars we had as kids — remember the variety packs of chocolate, vanilla, and cherry? A staple in my family’s freezer.
This place encapsulates everything I love in a European restaurant. Small thoughtful seasonal menu, effortlessly chic decor with a lived-in feel that tells the story of both its history and the owner’s life, and service that is borderline rude, but with a comedic and familial twist, if you engage long enough.
CHEVAL D’OR
Maybe my favorite meal of the trip. Both upscale and unfussy, elegant and rustic, all at once. The menu celebrates Asian flavors with French techniques, and I don’t think I’ve ever had “fusion” this good — paying homage to the cuisines in such a beautiful way, but also stretching the imaginations of both to create entirely new flavors that sort of changed my brain chemistry. I had a similar experience at Cafe Frieda in Berlin, which often fuses Asian flavors with Italian-inspired dishes (like the Sicilian tomatoes marinated in smoked shoyu and toasted sesame oil.)
The table settings and decor were also curated to perfection. Miniature iron horse figurines as chopstick holders (cheval means horse in French), blue and white china plates, copper candleholders, but my favorite part is the vintage wooden Frigidaire, which is now a life goal to have in my future kitchen. If fridge’s could talk y’know? They also have a Toto toilet — nice touch.
Although it was tough to pick just one favorite bite, the shrimp toast croque madame really stood out. Genius collab. Honorable mentions include — spicy smashed cucumber salad over toasted sesame creme fraiche, crispy duck l’orange pancakes, and scallops wrapped in dumplings with roe and beurre blanc. Wild stuff.
OGATA / PARCELLES
The next day, we got lucky with a last minute lunch reservation at Parcelles. The key is to call first thing when they open and snag a cancelation. It had been on my list for a while, and even though we had just finished croissants and mini chocolate fondants with our coffee, we knew we had to make the 12pm happen. So in the name of killing time, we decided to do some vintage shopping. Sadly, we realized most shops don’t open until 12pm or later. After a bit of aimless wandering, it started to rain and we desperately needed an outpost to stay dry and warm. I scanned my brain for nearby familiar spots and nonchalantly asked Meg if she felt like a green tea. I had mentally bookmarked the tea room at Ogata (a slice of Japan in Paris) last summer, never actually having experienced it. It seemed like a nice place to seek cover, but I had no idea just how special it would be.
We were led down a spiral staircase to the underground tea salon, greeted by a woman with red rimmed glasses as she delicately toasted the Hōjicha tea leaves in a porcelain pot. The room was near silent, aside from the sounds of hot water being scooped and poured from a wooden ladle, ceramic glasses clinking, and happy whispers from the couple next to us. I swear I could feel my nervous system resetting. We were handed thick menus and quickly realized we had stepped into a full on high tea ceremony, Japanese style, complete with savory and sweet confections, less so a quickie cuppa. But we couldn’t have been happier. Meg and I looked at each other and started to giggle. We later agreed that if a guy nonchalantly asked if we wanted a cup of tea and he took us here, we would send him our ring size. We cracked our knuckles and mentally prepared for meal #2, a pregame for meal #3, all before noon. Although the best part of the experience may have been that we weren’t expecting it, I do think it’s a worthy stop on your next trip.
OTHER WORTHY STOPS
Chez George - favorite classic Parisian lunch
Boulangerie Terroirs d'Avenir - my favorite croissant
E. DEHILLERIN - like Home Depot for chefs but make it 200 years old and Parisian. Took home some fresh black aprons.
Thoumieux - very fun dinner spot with live music and dancing. Surprisingly mostly locals and the food was way better than it needed to be?
FOR MY NEXT VISIT
On Friday I am heading to Germany for a wedding in a lake town that I have yet to attempt to pronounce out loud. I’m really looking forward to some schnitzel.
Tune in next week for an entertaining update on private cheffing in London. It’s been a journey so far!
Toodles, tschüss, au revioir, eur all stars to me xxxx
xx,
B&B
Get me a fancy tea and I will send you my ring size. Oui